Made for the mannequin: problems associated with a vacant acceptance of fast fashion
“Barrel” “balloon” “draped” and “gathered”
These are just some of the terms used to describe the perpetually listed products on fast fashion websites such as ASOS, SHEIN, Zara, Cider, among others. The textile industry or the ‘ill-fitting-clothes’ business has eagerly leeched onto emerging trends which revolve around the ‘baggy’, the ‘bubbled’ and the ‘bunched.’ Under the guise of the alternative image and fashion which doesn’t take itself seriously, modern shoppers are beginning to see a new wave of distorted apparel. An innovative range of plastic materials which collect at the neckline, disregard the shoulder, and dome at the waist. Clothing is no longer tailored with the wearer in mind. In fact, the only thing modern fashion seems fit for, is the bin.
85% of all textiles are incinerated each year (UNECE, 2018). Whilst some element of responsibility must be bestowed upon the consumer, it is unsurprising that cheap clothes end up in the dump as a result of disposable manufacturing. The production of synthetic fibres—fibres made from plastics sourced from oil and gas—now comprises 60-70% of all textiles worldwide (EEA, 2019). Vehmas et al., (2018) found that sustainable fashion is not a priority for young customers, and they continue to buy fast fashion despite strongly supporting the concept. Gen Z continues to partake in fast fashion because their attitude is positively influenced by its availability and the presence of trends. Interestingly, Gen Z are negatively influenced by the function of fashion itself. This research finds that there is a growing awareness amongst the current generation in relation to the rapid decline of fast fashion.
Copyright: Andrei Antipov | Dreamstime.com
ASOS’s recent financial report makes a point of pushing the word ‘relevance’, possibly as a means of partially alleviating themselves of moral responsibility in relation to our ongoing overconsumption crisis. In their interim for March 2026, the company states, “the most relevant product is always at the heart of our proposition” (ASOS plc, 2026). In the connotations surrounding notions of ‘relevancy’, ASOS seem to suggest that they are catering to external trends, demands and driving forces which exist outside the industry. This is highly paradoxical as fast-fashion companies play an active role in the creation of these trends in order to generate revenue, Miranda Priestly as my witness. Production proliferation and shorter product life cycles are reflected in the uncertainty of retailers and manufacturers to forecast the wants of the consumer. This is evident in ASOS’s infamous commercial strategy of uploading up to 5000 new styles to their website every week; if you throw enough mud at a wall, some of it will stick. It could be argued that whilst relevance is aspirational of any business strategy, companies renowned for such enormous yields do not necessarily need to concern themselves with the refinement of designs, fabrics or longevity.
According to the Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company (2018), one in seven young women consider it a fashion faux-pas to be seen in the same outfit twice. There is an intersection to be observed here between the attention economy of the virtual realm and how it interacts with the real world. An incessant need to stay with the times requires a person to participate in short product and personality cycles; to exist quickly, like a garment or a short form video. I cannot answer the question of temporary identities, where they go or what they manifest into. Single-use outfits, on the other hand, I have seen colonising second hand clothing platforms such as Vinted as sustainable shopping alternatives have now unfortunately found a place in the periphery of the fast-fashion supply chain.
Fast fashion companies manufacture trends. By buying into these trends, the consumer re-affirms this action. The result is asymmetrical articles, plastic fibres and other pieces which dress the population of late-stage capitalism in “emperor's new clothes” type get-up. Consumers should be encouraged to think critically about the sustainability and longevity of the items they purchase. Clothes should be expensive, and they should last you; it is, after all, your wardrobe we are talking about and not single-use straws.
From July 19th, large companies are prohibited from destroying unsold clothes across the EU. The measure, introduced under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation(ESPR), aims to prevent the waste of valuable products and the resources used to make them. You too can contribute to change by evaluating your own consumption of textiles and considering the fact that clothes should fit you and not vice versa. Finally, clothes are supposed to be worn. Let's drift away from notions of outfit repeating and centre the idea of a signature look again.
